The Peloponnese is the southernmost peninsula of mainland Greece, a mountainous region linked to the rest of the country only by a narrow strip of land. It is one of the most important regions for lovers of ancient Greece, home to the sacred and cultural sites of Epidaurus, Corinth, Olympia, Mycenae, Sparta, and more. Beyond its classical heritage, there are also many exquisite Byzantine centers to explore, such as Monemvasia and Mystras, not to mention its outstanding natural beauty and awe-inspiring horizons.

The November air is heavy with resin as we drive over the twisting roads. Passing through the small village of Steno (Στενό), I urge my friend to stop so I can drink from a spring that pours from the bark of an ancient plane tree.