Our Lady of the Shelters
The November air is heavy with resin as we drive over the twisting roads. Passing through the small village of Steno (Στενό), I urge my friend to stop so I can drink from a spring that pours from the bark of an ancient plane tree.
The water is still cool on my lips as we arrive at the church of Our Lady of the Shelters (Παναγία των Καταφυγιών), a series of shelters and chapels carved into the cliff face below the road.
Descending the paved pathway, the view of the valley is staggering. The shelters were constructed here to serve as a secret chapel, school, and stronghold during the Ottoman occupation.
Ducking through narrow entrances and walking along creaking floorboards, it is possible to explore the suspended rooms, where fresh water comes from a spring in the rock and the trunk of a tree reminds me that the rock face was once exposed to the air.
Continuing the hike downward, I look up at the shelters from below. I imagine making the precarious descent from the top of the mountain three hundred years ago, unaided by metal railing or concrete steps.
Breathless from the climb, I return to the top for a final view of the surrounding mountains.