Lake Doxa

We began our journey on the Feneos plateau, 900 meters above the sea where lake Doxa (Λίμνη Δόξα) lies nestled in alpine forest.

The shore of Lale Doxa with evergreen-covered mountains

Walking past vendors of walnuts, wild thyme and honey, we made our way down a narrow strip of land that extends into the center of the lake. At the end of the promontory is a small church, dedicated to Saint Fanourios (‘Αγιος Φανουρίος) and the crumbling remains of a monastery.

The path leading to Saint Fanourios Church

The Church of Saint Fanourios (‘Αγιος Φανουρίος)

Crumbling remains of an old church

The wind came in gusting bursts, sweeping down from the mountains to shake the willow trees and ripple the surface of the water. I stumbled upon a lone mullein plant, growing wild beside the monastery ruins.

My hand holding a willow branch

Wild mullein

A dam was visible in the distance against the soft blue waters, reminding me that Doxa was created by human hands. The dam was built in the 1990s to control the frequent flooding of the plain and to provide irrigation for local farmers.

The bell of Saint Fanourios (‘Αγιος Φανουρίος)

Facing north on the promontory, it’s possible to see the red and blue monastery of Saint George (Μόνη Αγίου Γεωργίου Φενεού) hidden amongst the changing trees. The monastery was built there in the late 1600s after frequent flooding forced the monks to abandon the monastery at the center of the lake.

The monastery of Saint George (Μόνη Αγίου Γεωργίου Φενεού) on the mountain

After a short walk around Doxa, we journey up the mountain to St George, where, even in autumn, the courtyards are overflowing with greenery.

Ivy climbing the entrance to the Monastery of Saint George (Μόνη Αγίου Γεωργίου Φενεού)

The courtyard of Saint George’s Monastery (Μόνη Αγίου Γεωργίου Φενεού)

I immediately fall in love with the native Greek ivy (Hedera helix), dark black berries against deep green, vining its way over the yard entrance and climbing up the side of the monastery wall. Called κισσός (kee-SOS) by the Greeks, it was worn in garlands by followers of Dionysos, a symbol of immortality, intoxication, and the passionate entwining of lovers.

Greek ivy, Hedera helix

Rose Preserves of the Monastery of Saint George (Μόνη Αγίου Γεωργίου Φενεού)

A small shrine between two trees

A short tour of the church and attic (where the monks held a secret school during the Ottoman occupation) ends with a sampling of their delicious rose petal spoon sweet. The monks make a living from the rose preserves, as well as firewood harvested from the surrounding forest. I steal one last view of lake Doxa from the balcony window before rejoining the group.

The view of Lake Doxa from the Monastery of Saint George